Излезе брой 2 на списание "Текстил и облекло" за 2019 г.

Брой 2 на списание "Текстил и облекло" за 2019 г.
22.07.2019 / 14:35

В новия брой може да прочетете:


Статия: Значение на технологичната документация за устойчивото развитие на предачното и на тъкачното производство

Автор: Росица КРЮГЕР и Ивелин РАХНЕВ

Ключови думи: spinning, sustainability, information system

Резюме: The whole process of yarn formation by twisting is concentrated in a miniature space whose volume does not exceed 5 ml. The mass of fibrous material also generally does not exceed 3-5 mg. In the case of ring spinning machines, this space is located immediately after the outgoing drafting pair, and in the rotor spinning - in the camera's canal. The essential phenomenon consists in the final transformation of the fibrous sheaf of parallel stacked fibres into spiral wound fibres. This is the moment, that separates ultimately and irreversibly the spinning technological flow. First, the yarn can no longer recover the embedded fibres with preserved initial properties and quality. This means that any technological error or incorrect machine setting degrades the quality of the yarn ordered and reduces its market value.

Secondly, any rejected yarn, due to poor quality, damages previous technological processes. The

preparation of the twisted bundle begins with the dissolution of the fibrous raw materials and undergoes

numerous processes and operations. In this sense, from the initial formation of a uniform fibrous flow to its conversion into yarn, the fibres are subjected to the action of various machine parts and working

organs. The setting and observance of the nominal operating mode of the spinning gear maintain the

quality of the yarn and the efficiency of the production. In our day, this requirement requires the

development and maintenance of an information system for technological management of spinning



Статия: Сравняване на минерални дъбители при обработката на ензимно опреснени овчи кожи

Автор: Маргарита КОЛЕВА, Димитрина ИВАНОВА, Евгения ВАСИЛЕВА - ТОНКОВА, Десислава СТАНЕВА

Ключови думи: безхромово дъбене, овчи кожи, цирконий, титан, алуминий

Резюме: Един от основните замърсители в кожарската промишленост е хромовото дъбене. С

премахване на хромовите съединения от дъбилните процеси учените се стремят да създават

екологични и чисти технологии в обработката. В последните години се прилага комбинирано

дъбене, при което се използват нови комплекси с помощта на метални заместители като Al, Zr,

Ti и други. Част от тези насоки е така нареченото “бяло дъбене".


Статия: Модернизация на осветителна система в текстилно предприятие

Автор: Пламен ЦАНКОВ, Милко ЙОВЧЕВ

Ключови думи: textile workshop lighting, LED, lighting calculations, energy e?ciency, payback

Резюме: The paper presents a project for energy efficient modernization of the lighting systems of sewing, cutting and ironing workshops in a textile enterprise by introducing of a new LED luminaires. The development is carried out in the following stages: audit of the existing lighting system; specifying the requirements of the quantitative and qualitative indicators of lighting in the textile works according to BDS EN 12464-2011 and BDS EN 15193-2017; multivariate lighting calculations of new LED lighting for textile factories using specialized lighting software; assessment of the electricity savings and economic efficiency of the proposed modernization. The results obtained confirm the energy efficiency and economic profitability from the introduction of LED lighting in the textile industry.


Статия: Мъжките костюми

Автор: Ангелин Николаев ПОПСКИ

Резюме: The paper describes avant-garde fashion which bears the characteristics of the future, always

surprises us with new plasticity and vision, and creates a new image system.

The analyses and conclusions are based on a study of avant-garde fashion of well-known designers

which includes conclusions, tables and forecasts on a larger scale.

The designers present collections focused on colours, huge additional elements, complexly folded

materials and structures.

In avant-garde fashion the image system is different. Some of the designers are excited by the sea

shore, the dazzle of the sun and present a mixture of prints on fabrics.

From the analyses of the image system it can be seen that some of the designers connect their works

with the traditions of the national cultures and the technology of the future, others seek the architectural motives of the village and the town, authentic and virtual movement, peace and quiet, meditation and activity.


Статия: Дизайн на кожени изделия


Ключови думи: Fashion design, ladies clothing, sculptural style, constructive lines

Резюме: The paper describes avant-garde fashion which bears the characteristics of the future, always

surprises us with new plasticity and vision, and creates a new image system. The article follows the

development of the sculptural style in women's. The change of silhouettes, the used decorative and

constructive lines, as well as the sculptural elements in the compositions, have an essential role in the distribution and organization of the clothing structure. The themes of the non-traditional geometric

motives, lines, dots, regular and irregular figures put the form formation in an unusual state.


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