Темите от новия брой 6 на списание "Текстил и облекло"

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28.08.2018 / 10:24

Статия: Трудно горима апретура за памучни и памучен тип тъкани

Автор: ВУ Ти Хонг Кхан

Ключови думи: cotton fabric, cotton polyester blend fabric, flame retardant agent, cross-link agent, Organophosphorus flame retardant agent


Cotton is the one of the most important textile fibre because of its comfort and worldwide consumption. However, it ignites easily and is frequently implicated in fire. Since, considerable efforts have been made to develop flame-retardant cotton. The flame-retardant cotton fabrics must be durable to washing cycles, eco-friendly and have a good physical mechanical properties. This article summarizes an overview of the factors related to the requirements of flame retardant cotton fabrics such as chemical agents and technological parameters.

This section also introduces some of the new chemicals and techniques used in the fire retardant treatment for cotton fabric. They allow flame retardant treated fabrics to have more durable fire resistance and better mechanical properties while still being environmentally friendly.

In the 2 and 3 sections of this article, the experimental results of study on flame retardant treatment for cotton and cotton polyester blend fabrics of the authors are presented. The experimental results show that flame retardant cotton and cotton polyester blend fabrics, which was received from this research have a good flame retardancy, but it has limited durability to wash, moreover, after treatment, mechanical strength of fabric was reduced. In order to have the durable flame retardant, eco-friendly cotton fabric, the study should be continued in the direction of using environmentally friendly chemicals and in treatment process, it should avoid the conditions that may adversely affect the mechanical strength of the fabric. Plasma application inflame retardant treatment of fabric may be a good solution to could meet all requirements of fabric.


Статия: Еволюция на плетачните машини

Автор: Андреас Хараламбус

Ключови думи: плетачни машини, еволюция, история


The development of knitting machines goes hand in hand with the implementation and use by humans of various knitting structures. As the knitting technique develops, it becomes more productive and allows knitting of more complex structures. Production becomes more flexible, and for a very short time it passes from producing one item to another.

The beginning of the knitting machine was given in 1589 from William Li. His machine knits with spring bearded needles with a productivity of about 100 loop rows per minute. In hand knitting, the productivity is barely 120-150 stitches per minute. Today's circular knitting machines fitted with a large number of knitting systems (for example 50) and moving at a speed of 20 rpm may be up to 2000000 stitches per minute, depending on the number of needles in the cylinder. If we go back 20 years, the maximum production of a knitting machine was 300 Kg per day, and today it reaches 1500 Kg per day.

This is why the actual study represents the overall development of knitting machines and modern innovations in this field. The most important discoveries in the development of knitting machines are given in tabular form, including those earlier in the centuries after 1589, as well as recent achievements.

Throughout the development, the main goal was to increase the productivity of the machines and the ability to knit as much as possible a variety of knitted structures.

In tabular form is given the time and place of the various discoveries in the development of knitting technique. The name of the discoverer is also given. Such a presentation of the history of the knitting machine was also made by other authors. In the present work, the information is broader and up-to-date.

From the analysis of the evolution of the knitting machine, it is also noticed that by adding additional accessories to existing knitting machines, it is intended to apply different techniques to the shaping of knitting. This, however at this stage leads to the complication and cost of knitting machines without substantial production becoming more efficient. On the contrary, productivity is declining significantly. This means that science and technology still fail to effectively apply these techniques to industrial production.

In this connection, new solutions must be sought. It is necessary to change the basic philosophy of knitting. New loop forming methods must be sought to provide free space knitting, organs to intertwine the threads effectively and form the bulk shapes of the human figure. It is wrong to go for this purpose from the existing knitting machines that have already played their part and were mainly designed for knitting knitwear. For the production of 3-D knits (wholegarments), all-new robotic knitting machines are needed. It has to be assumed that traditional knitting with knitting needles is at the end and looking for alternatives to knitting needles (water or air jet, etc.). The loop forming element must be variable in size, receive variable velocity and trajectory in the space. Being able to act in the area of a loop, a group of loops or the whole bunch of loops.

Another prospect for knitters manufacturers to be involved is a flow robotic line that provides a complete knitting of knit garments. This prospect preserves traditional knitting techniques and technologies and provides effective knitting of wholegarments. Separate pieces are knit from various knitting machines in a line, and finally they are knit together to form the finished article.


Статия: Хай тек дизайнът в контекста на социалните мрежи

Автор: Лиляна Петкова, Любомир Стойков

Ключови думи: fashion design, hi-tech design, smart textiles, high technologies, social networks futurism, nanotechnology, pop-up shop


The report looks at the successful collaboration between high technology and fashion. An overview of futuristic sounding fashion items is made that is unique in its design, function, purpose and use in order to present leading trends, predictions and perspectives to contemporary fashion. Combining and blending nanotechnology with the latest creations of fashion design has led to the creation of innovative and provocative prototypes. An attempt has been made to present fashionable works of smart materials of interdisciplinary nature. Attention is also paid to the dynamics of communication - another important aspect of high-tech fashion design, facilitating communication through social networks. Special emphasis is placed on pop-ups as a postmodern innovative business strategy through which fashion brands reach their customers more quickly and efficiently.



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